Review of The Cellar Door in Durham, the independent restaurant in 13th Century surroundings

But back in the historic heart of the city, there’s still stalwarts flying the flag for independents.

With no shop frontage and just an inconspicuous wooden door alerting you to its location, it may be easy to miss the entrance to The Cellar Door on the winding Saddler Street – but with the high quality of food it offers you won’t want to.

A conversion of a 13th century cellar, it’s a higgledy-piggledy building that's teeming with character, although it’s worth noting that the historic nature of the site may mean it poses a problem for those with mobility issues.

We booked ahead for a Friday lunch and it’s best to do so at this well-established and popular spot.

It’s a very tasteful restaurant with feature heritage-inspired wallpaper contrasting with exposed stone walls and period sash windows offering views over the Wear as it meanders under Elvet Bridge. Meanwhile, the lower restaurant offers a more subterranean and atmospheric dining experience that’s ideal for a romantic dinner date.

If you’re looking to save some pennies, the lunch menu, which runs from 12pm-5pm Monday to Saturday, also offers incredible value for quality at two courses for £22 and three for £26.

I chose the Applewood smoked chicken terrine with crostini, carrot and parsley to start.

Artfully-presented with real care, it was a dish begging to be committed to Instagram: two satisfying rounds of terrine with dashes of puree and delicate baby carrots.

The terrine itself was beautifully-executed, a really delicate medley of flavours which didn’t overpower the main chicken element.

Across the table, my dining partner’s choice of twice-baked cave aged Cheddar souffle with chives and parmesan cream drew equal amounts of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ – a really punchy cheese flavour complemented with a moreish cream. This is relaxed fine dining worth writing home about.

For mains, I had the chalk stream trout with tomato and saffron risotto with smoked mussels and kale – and it was another triumph.

A huge slab of trout for the price, with a perfectly crisp skin, the delicate nuance of the fish was elevated with the incredibly flavoursome risotto with crisp kale adding an extra layer of texture.

My friend’s choice of pressed beef shin with parsnip, smoked mash and jus was also flawless – and it’s not often neither of us can find a single fault with a meal.

At only an extra £4 for a third course, I was seriously tempted by dessert options which included brioche bread and butter pudding; dark chocolate fondant and poached quince with mulled wine, walnut and gingerbread. But the generous portions of the two previous courses defeated me.

Our bill for two with a bottle of a very drinkable indeed Picpoul was £74 – I’ve certainly paid more for less quality in cities such as Durham.

Service was as spot on as the food: swift, friendly and knowledgeable. It’s no wonder this is one of the city’s most perennially-popular restaurants, despite the influx of newcomers vying for diners’ patronage.