Review of Franco Cookson at the Montane Secret Sessions in Newcastle

The incredible ups and death-defying downs of life as a professional climber were laid bare with comedy and candor as Franco Cookson gave an insight into his rocky world.

The athlete has spent much of his career putting the North East and North Yorkshire on the climbing map. He’s renowned for some bold and technical first ascents, and established dozens of new roots.

But despite his achievements he is figuratively what a climber never wants to be, grounded and down to earth, and happy to discuss his mistakes, failings and the unwise moves of early career could have cost him his life.

The latter included an ice climbing trip to Ben Nevis when the then-inexperienced Franco and his associates headed to the Scottish mountain armed with second-hand kit from eBay and plenty of youthful hubris.

The trip saw Franco triggering an avalanche, which the group survived, and another member of the party falling 60 metres (almost 200ft) - miraculously escaping serious injury.

Franco has himself fallen during his career, including a drop of more than 20m.

He discussed how climbers controlled their fear and how getting used to the idea of falling, and even experiencing falls, is part of the climber’s armour when the worst happens.

“You’re more relaxed when you fall,” he said.

“If you’re falling and you’re really scared, you tense up, and that makes you more vulnerable to injury.”

Climbing and its less risky sibling bouldering have been growing in popularity, and it also feels as if the sport has seen a spike in interest among non-climbers.

Sport climbing became in Olympic competition for the first time at the 2020 Tokyo Games, while the purer form of the activity has proven a draw to cinema and TV audiences, with Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold amazing viewers with the exploits in The Dawn Wall and Free Solo respectively.

Both films feature El Capitan, a gigantic 3,000ft high rock formation in Yosemite National Park. Its infamous ‘Dawn Wall’ is an incredibly difficult route for climbers, and Franco shared the story of his own, unfortunately fruitless, attempt.

Franco also recounted his unsuccessful attempt on Greenland’s notorious Mirror Wall, which requires an incredible feat of adventure just to reach the start of the climb itself - with polar bears and icebergs to contend with on the journey.

Franco has, however, had many successful climbing trips around the world, however, and gave the audience a flavour of some of his adventures.

But it is his climbs at home in the North of England which count among his favourite experiences.

Franco is something of a disruptor in the climbing world, shining a light on previously little-known climbing spots and enjoying seeing climbers from the UK’s climbing capital of Sheffield trekking up to the North Yorkshire Moors and North East coast to take on new routes he has established.

Rattling the climbing establishment seems to be part of the fun for Franco.

“It’s just funny watching people travel to climb some scraggy cliff in Whitby because of me,” he said.

One of his greatest moments was making the first ascent of the ‘Nothing Lasts’ route at Sandy Crag in Northumberland, said to be one of the most difficult and dangerous climbs in the UK. He described it as being a ‘golden moment’.

Franco was speaking at a Montane ‘Secret Session’ at Brinkburn Street Brewery in Newcastle. The sessions are on offshoot of Kendal Mountain Festival, and took place throughout January and February in small venues around the country.

Audience members buy tickets not knowing which athlete will be giving the talk. It’s the first time the series has come to the North East, and since it is sponsored by a Northumberland company (Montane has its HQ in Ashington), it has been overdue a visit to the region.

The outdoor clothing company also sponsors Franco, and he gave a wry smile as he concluded the talk discussing his hopes for the future, including climbing expeditions to South America - so long as Montane helps foot the bill.