Review of hidden gem Coarse in Durham

Turn the corner from the hullaballoo of Durham's North Road and you find yourself in a quaint courtyard housing a real culinary gem.

Eighteen months after opening, Coarse (spelt like the texture, not course the dish) has already earnt a spot in the Michelin Guide and is one of Durham's top-rated restaurants - no mean feat for a new restaurant.

Head into Reform Place and the experience already feels like a special one, the warm glow of Coarse in one of Durham's myriad of historic buildings and, opposite, the fairy lights of the Head of Steam pub. You could have a good night out without ever leaving this unassuming pocket-sized courtyard.

The welcome was equally warm: super-friendly staff. And, although the decor is simple, all cool blues and greens punctuated with splashes of abstract artworks, it works to create an informal, cosy atmosphere where the food speaks for itself.

We were the first through the doors for the 6pm sitting, but it soon filled up. The place is regularly fully booked at weekends, so make sure to book ahead.

Co-owner Gemma informed us many are regulars (always a good sign) who come for the menu change every six weeks.

Again, another feat, to have such return custom for a tasting menu, which is all too often the preserve of a special occasion.

But Coarse has taken this most intimidating of menus and made it accessible, fun and affordable thanks to head chef and co-owner Ruari MacKay, formerly of Terry Laybourne's Bistro 21. No tweezers and minuscule dots of foam here: it's good, honest food, well executed with great ingredients and plentiful portions for your pounds.

The Food

We started with snacks.

Snacks by name, but they could hold up as dishes in their own right with a rich savoury cornbread cake of sweetcorn and truffle served with crispy pancetta and chipotle and maple syrup butter. *chef's kiss*.

It was followed by a real explosion of flavour - celeriac shawarma on a flatbread with blood orange, gherkin ketchup, black garlic mayo and nduja sauce.

They whet our appetites for a real palate pleaser of a menu.

Our first course of artichokes, mash and gravy was a masterclass in using great ingredients well - with a banger of a gravy.

Next up, the smoked haddock, curry and rice was a winner with its heady aroma from the get go. Taste wise, it was a perfect medley of flavour reminiscent of a comforting kedgeree.

After spotting it on the menu, we followed up with the extra course (£10 supplement) of scallops, haggis and neeps - a culinary ode to the season and a hangover from Burns' Night.

Haggis is a punchy pudding that takes no prisoners, but the silky, creamy scallops really held its own against the meat. Meanwhile, the smoothness of the neeps and a hint of tartness with shards of apple really made for a poetic dish worthy of Robert Burns' pen.

The heartiness continues with chicken, ham and leek. As with the other dishes, it's a great-sized portion, prettily presented, its classic British ingredients executed with aplomb. And that gravy!

On to the first of two desserts.

Granted, I don't have much of a sweet tooth, but the rhubarb and custard had me fondly remembering a flavour combination of boiled sweets of my youth, brought up to date in a spectacular way with a pretty pink sugar crust to tap into to reveal the lusciousness inside.

Custard has never tasted so light - and un-school dinner-like - a smooth contrast with the unmistakeable bold zing of rhubarb. Inventive and oh so good.

Another classic to finish: good old sticky toffee pudding.

It's got to be one of the most tried and tested of puds going, but Coarse have really taken a classic and put their own stamp on it with the sweetness of the toffee cut through with a kick of malt whisky and punctuated with the satisfying crunch of roasted pecans.

We couldn't get enough of the stuff. If I could have picked up the plate and licked it clean I would have, though Coarse is so relaxed I don't think they'd have minded.

The Drinks

We went with the wine pairing option, priced £33 - incredible value when other places charge at least three times that.

Our sommelier Harriett was super knowledgeable on the story behind the wines and how the variations of climate and variations in soil inform the flavours, which all adds to the real dining experience offered by Coarse.

It was a perfect pairing, such as Ricasoli Antico Feudo della Trappola, a Tuscan red served with our haggis dish that really held its own against the heavy meat with its plummy ripeness and a golden dessert wine of Le Tertre du Bosquet Sauternes that gave up a bouquet of sweet smoothness with our sticky toffee pudding.

Aside from wine pairing, there's also a cocktail menu, all priced £9, as well as beers, lagers, IPAs and Ciders such as Coarse Pilsner (£6) and Vaux Raspberry Bramble Sour (£6).

There's also a good range of alcohol-free and low alcohol options.

The Price

Note the restaurant is a tasting menu restaurant, so no a la carte option. The menu changes every six weeks and is priced £45 per person for six courses with a £10 supplement for an additional course.

A vegetarian option tasting menu is also available.

A lunch tasting menu is also available with three courses from the six, priced £22.50.

There's also an upstairs room, which can be hired for private dining.

The current menu is running until February 18.