Cosy up at Alpine-style lodge this winter: Review of Wildernest at The Palm, Sunderland

Despite the December chill in the air, the fire pit at Wildernest gave us a warm Wearside welcome when we visited for food on Tuesday night.

Part of The Palm complex, it’s one of four restaurants at this multi-purpose riverside site which also houses Liberty Brown, Tropicuba and Pineapple Cove.

Just over a year since £1.5million was ploughed into the site to branch out and become The Palm and it’s still one of Sunderland’s most unique venues. Towering palm trees and lush greenery isn’t what you’d expect in the middle of a retail park, but this venture from the Apartment Group has very much become a destination site, with plenty of free parking as an added bonus - unlike the city centre.

Each of the four restaurants has its own identity: Tropicuba looks to the heat of Havana with its Day of the Dead theme, Liberty Brown is a quirky mish-mash of curiosities, Pineapple Cove with its wicker furniture evokes beachcomber vibes while Wildernest, with its Alpine ski lodge aesthetic, lends itself well to the season.

Expect faux fur throws, moody lighting and handmade Elm furniture at this cabin-esque escape, as well as an outside fire pit for al fresco drinks.

The menu’s also full of winter warmers: grazing boards, burgers, grill dishes, classics such as mince and dumplings and a good choice of vegan and veggie choices, such as Moroccan chickpea and vegetable hotpot and miso aubergine steak.

To start we rolled up our sleeves and tucked into the From the Land sharing platter (£17.95), a real meat feast of a velvety chicken liver parfait, grilled chorizo sausages with a good kick, flatbread strips, moreish popcorn chicken that we couldn’t stop popping, tender chipotle pulled pork croquettes, cured cold meats and salad.

You got plenty for the price on a huge wooden slab and we struggled to finish it all, you could order it as light meal in itself.

In a seaside city that’s ironically lacking in seafood restaurants, bar fish and chip joints, Wildernest also offers a good selection of seafood and is probably the only menu in the city that has a dedicated lobster section, where you can get your claws into everything from a sinful side of lobster mac and cheese (£6.50) to Steak & Lobster (£29.95), which features an 8oz rump steak as well as a half grilled lobster with garlic butter, homemade chips and burnt lemon.

Despite it being the priciest section on the menu, as you would expect for this type of food, we fell hook, line and sinker for the lobster and I pushed the boat out with the full lobster and chunky chips (£27.95), with a half portion setting you back £15.95.

It’s served dressed, with a choice of sauces, either garlic and lemon butter, classic thermidor or Asian (chilli, mango, sesame, coriander). I had the creamy thermidor, served in artistic swirls on the plate, instead of on the lobster, which was enough to make an impact without overpowering the light and luxurious flesh.

Drinks-wise, colourful cocktails, featuring everything from dip dabs to marmalade, form the bulk of the menu. As such, the wine selection is more limited but we enjoyed our crisp and pale Pinot Grigio rosé (£18.95 a bottle), which worked well with the delicate flavour of the lobster.

Whereas with most restaurants you head somewhere else for post-dinner drinks, The Palm’s USP is that you can spend the night flitting between its bars, whether it’s for a pint overlooking new city landmark the Northern Spire on the Liberty Brown terrace or a game of beer pong in Tropicuba.